Green landscapes, running waters, wild nature, and traditional buildings that count centuries of life. This is what the visitor will see in an unknown to many areas of Epirus and specifically the prefecture of Ioannina, Pogoni. It is one of the border areas of Greece on the Greek-Albanian border, which goes through lonely winters and lively summers. An area that seems to be transformed during the summer months but falls into… winter sleep the rest of the time. Ideal choice for those who are looking for a true retreat away from any crowds of tourism but for absolute contact with nature.
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Pogoni: The border villages that come alive only in the summers
The villages of Pogoni are many, some larger and others smaller. In a few of them, such as Kalpaki, Ravenia, and Doliana you can find traditional guesthouses in every sense of the word in which you will enjoy real peace. It is no exaggeration to say that he can only hear the sound of birds or running water. In winter few guesthouses in operation offer, however, great and special hospitality with traditional breakfasts and local flavors to make an additional gastronomic trip.
Having as a starting point the village you choose, you can take a road trip and see natural landscapes, and rivers and follow small hiking routes. The well-known river of the area is Kalamas and the mountain that surrounds the villages is called Kassidiaris. Try making stops in villages where you will find traditional cafes with wooden stoves lit and residents ready to tell you stories from the past. The villages of Pogoni are very close to the border station of Kakavia, the border with Albania which you can easily reach.
One of the very interesting villages in the area with similar sights is Pogoniani. In the border village of Pogoniani, you will visit an interesting folklore museum with household utensils, textiles, loom, local costumes, agricultural and livestock tools, and photographs from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Of amazing beauty even in winter, which is completely quiet and not crowded, is the lake of Zaravina, in Pogoni, which is accompanied by several myths. Lake Zaravina hosts a unique ecosystem with rare species while from a geological point of view, the lake is a deep ravine that at some point in the very prehistoric years was filled with water from the glaciers that were constantly melting.
The historic Kalpaki Pogoni
Villages of Pogoni without visiting the historic Kalpaki is not possible. The historic village of Kalpaki, which is one of the largest villages of Pogoni and the seat of the homonymous municipality, was a point of fierce clashes in November 1940. The Italian plans for the occupation of Greece initially provided for the surprise attack on Epirus and Corfu to occupy them.
If you find yourself in Kalpaki you will see that on the hill above the village dominates the imposing bronze statue of the Fighter of the ’40s that is accessible to admire it up close, while in the village there is a War Museum with rare exhibits.
The villages of Pogoni are filled in the summer with people who now live in the cities and return to their homeland. The traditional festivals with clarinets seem to unite them as they are a landmark of the area. And when winter comes, villages that had 200 and 300 people in the summer may be left with families counted on the fingers of one hand. If you miss this peace and disconnection from the bustling everyday life, then the villages of Pogoni should probably be your next destination.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Pogoni is a border region in the prefecture of Ioannina in Epirus, Greece, located along the Greek-Albanian border. It is known for its green landscapes, traditional buildings, running waters, and wild nature. The area is characterized by lively summers and quiet winters, making it an ideal destination for those seeking a retreat away from crowded tourism.
The villages of Kalpaki, Ravenia, and Doliana in Pogoni offer traditional guesthouses where visitors can enjoy peace and quiet. Many of these guesthouses provide real traditional hospitality with homemade breakfasts and local flavors, even during the winter months when few remain open.
The main attractions in Pogoni include the Kalamas River, Kassidiaris Mountain, Lake Zaravina with its unique ecosystem, the Sosinou Monastery in Parakalamos, and the folklore museum in Pogoniani featuring household utensils, textiles, and historical photographs. The area is ideal for hiking and exploring traditional villages.
Kalpaki is the largest village in Pogoni and the seat of the homonymous municipality. It was the site of fierce clashes in November 1940 during the Italian occupation of Greece. The village features a War Museum with rare exhibits and an imposing bronze statue of a Fighter of the '40s on the hill above the village.
The villages of Pogoni experience dramatic seasonal changes because many residents who now live in cities return to their homeland during summer months. Villages with 200-300 people in summer may be left with only a few families during winter, creating a peaceful and quiet atmosphere that contrasts sharply with the lively summer season.
Lake Zaravina is located in Pogoni and is known for its amazing beauty, which remains apparent even in winter. The lake hosts a unique ecosystem with rare species and is surrounded by several myths. Geologically, it is a deep ravine that was filled with water from melting glaciers during prehistoric times.
