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The Athens neighborhood that escaped erasure and is now a gem

The islander aura of a district with a long history

Exploring Greece TV by Exploring Greece TV
in ATHENS, Old Athens, Tourist in my own city
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Anafiotika and its history

This picturesque world was created in the 1860s. What many people ignore is that it was illegal for many years as, since antiquity it was forbidden to build anything there. Today, of course, it is reminiscent of the architecture of an Aegean island. But how did we get to today? And how is it possible that in an area that building was completely forbidden, now one of the most picturesque places in Athens exists?

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Let’s start over. It was in the 1830s when Athens became the capital of the newly established Greek state. The development of the city was coming slowly and the urban plan made the center change shape gradually. For this purpose, in fact, the best builders from all over Greece were recruited. Together with Epirus, the islanders and in particular the inhabitants of Anafi had a good reputation, because they were trained to build their own stone houses on the rocks of their island.

Anafiotika in 1920

The district in Athens that escaped the consideration but not some demolitions

Soon the two masters from Anafi were copied from other fellow citizens and the houses began to multiply until an entire district was created. The Anafiotika! The district was surrounded by two churches that were recreated by the residents. Agios Georgios, located in the east and Agios Simeon in the west. The authorities, of course, had now noticed the illegal district, but Otto turned a blind eye. He was very pleased with the Anafian workers and wanted to keep them in Athens for the reconstruction.

The composition of the Anafiotika changed after the Asia Minor disaster and the arrival of the refugees. The first reactions to the illegality of the settlement came at the end of the 19th century Then the authorities tried to evacuate the inhabitants, on the pretext that the habitation in Anafiotika was dangerous due to the possible fall of rocks from the Acropolis. But the Anafians asked for huge compensations, which were impossible for the state to cover, and so their move to another area was canceled. So did any other plans for the construction of other houses in the area.Although there was the pretext of falling rocks.

The district was considered to aesthetically alter the north side of the Acropolis and recommendations were made to tourists to enjoy the Parthenon from the hill of Philopappou. The same thing happened in the early 1900s when the then mayor of Athens Spyros Merkouris, tried to demolish the houses of the district in order to bring to the light the archaeological treasures, which he believed were buried under their foundations. The Municipality could not compensate the residents and Anafiotika was left intact again. Finally, a part of the settlement was demolished in 1950 due to excavations.

Another demolition during the dictatorship era followed with a decision on forced expropriation. However, Anafiotika managed to escape the barrage attcks from those who wanted to take their houses and build modern ones, something that changed dozens of areas in Athens and
to the worse in just a few years time.

The Anafiotika today

The settlement is now preserved, it is famous and multi-photographed. There are about 45 houses outside of which you can pass by walking. And you must think you’re on an Island in the Aegean. The narrow streets, the white small houses with the bougainvillea and geraniums give special color to the area. What the older ones considered a “poor shack” is today a romantic spot in the heart of Athens.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Anafiotika is one of Athens' most picturesque neighborhoods, located near the Acropolis. It was created in the 1860s by workers from the island of Anafi who built stone houses illegally on forbidden land. Today, it resembles an Aegean island village and has escaped modernization, making it a unique gem in Athens with architecture that reflects its island origins.

Anafiotika was built starting in 1860 by two master builders from Anafi who constructed houses on plots that were forbidden for building since antiquity. According to history, they built during the night to avoid authorities' attention. Due to political turmoil of that period, the builders worked quickly and completed their work before being discovered. King Otto later turned a blind eye to the settlement because he valued the skilled Anafian workers for Athens' reconstruction.

When Athens became the capital of the newly established Greek state in the 1830s, the city needed skilled builders for development and urban planning projects. Workers from Anafi and other Greek regions had excellent reputations for building stone houses on rocky terrain. They were recruited to help with Athens' reconstruction and urban expansion during this important period.

Yes, authorities attempted several times to remove Anafiotika. In the late 19th century, they claimed habitation was dangerous due to possible rock falls from the Acropolis, but residents demanded huge compensations the state couldn't afford. In the early 1900s, Mayor Spyros Merkouris tried to demolish houses to excavate buried archaeological treasures, but again the Municipality lacked funds to compensate residents. Each time, Anafiotika survived intact.

After the Asia Minor disaster and the arrival of refugees to Athens, the composition and population of Anafiotika changed significantly. This period marked increased attention from authorities regarding the illegality of the settlement, leading to the first serious evacuation attempts in the late 19th century, though these ultimately failed due to compensation disputes.

Anafiotika is surrounded by two churches that were recreated by residents: Agios Georgios located in the east and Agios Simeon in the west. These churches reflect the residents' cultural and religious identity, further contributing to the neighborhood's unique character reminiscent of traditional Aegean island settlements.

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