If you have walked through Ermou Street even once in your life, you have surely seen the beautiful Kapnikara church up close. It is a small Byzantine church dating back to the 11th century. Coming down Ermou, you can’t pass by without noticing it.
Where did its get her name from? There are the two prevailing versions of the story as to how the church Panagia Kapnikarea got its name. The first is as follows: The name Kapnikarea is considered to be associated with the founder of the temple who was a “Kapnikarios”.
That’s what the tobacco tax collectors were called. Of course, the tobacco tax was not about smoking at the time. This c3ertain chimney tax had to do with residential buildings. Not all of them, but the ones from which smoke was coming out because of the fire used for cooking or heating. This is considered the prevailing version. Any homeowner who “smoked” should pay this tax.
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The rich history of the temple
Kapnikara risked demolition twice but both plans were overturned at the last minute. During the Turkish occupation, in fact, it was called the church of King’s Daughter and Prentzas. Despite the various disasters it has suffered, many steps to its restoration have been taken.
Next time you are at Ermou street going to Monastiraki district it would be worth making a stop and having a better look at it.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Kapnikarea is a small Byzantine church dating back to the 11th century, located on Ermou Street in downtown Athens. It is a hidden gem that many people walk past without noticing its historical significance and architectural beauty.
There are two prevailing theories about the name's origin. The first and most accepted theory suggests it comes from 'Kapnikarios,' referring to tobacco tax collectors who collected a chimney tax from residential buildings that produced smoke from cooking or heating fires. The second theory links it to 'kamouchas,' a precious textile used in the construction of icon footings in the church's painting of the Virgin Mary.
Although the exact construction date is unknown, Kapnikarea was built on the site of an earlier temple attributed to an Athenian empress. The church survived two near-demolition attempts and was called the Church of King's Daughter and Prentzas during Turkish occupation. Despite various disasters, it has undergone restoration efforts and today belongs to the University of Athens as a 'Holy University Temple.'
Today, Panagia Kapnikarea is dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin Mary. It serves as a Holy University Temple under the ownership of the University of Athens.
Yes, Kapnikarea church is definitely worth a stop while visiting Ermou Street, especially if you're heading toward the Monastiraki district. Despite its small size, it is a historically significant 11th-century Byzantine church with rich architectural and cultural heritage that offers insight into Athens' religious history.
